Garage Door Won't Open? Here's What to Check First

You're running late, you hit the button, and nothing happens. Or the door groans, starts to move, then stops dead. It's one of the most frustrating things a homeowner can face — especially when you're trapped in the garage with somewhere to be.

Before you panic (or call us at 816.289.9600), work through this checklist. Most garage door problems are caused by a handful of very common issues — and some of them you can fix in five minutes.

1. Check the Remote Batteries First

It sounds obvious, but dead or dying remote batteries are the number-one cause of a "garage door won't open" call. Remote batteries typically last one to two years depending on use.

• Replace both batteries in the remote (even if one still tests okay)
• Try the wall-mounted button inside the garage — if it works, the remote is the problem
• Stand closer to the opener when testing — a weak battery may only work at short range

If the wall button works but the remote doesn't after fresh batteries, the remote may need to be reprogrammed. Check your opener's manual or look up your model online — it's usually a two-step process.

2. Is the Opener Getting Power?

If nothing happens when you press either the remote or the wall button, the opener itself may have lost power.

• Check that the opener is plugged into its outlet (the plug can vibrate loose over time)
• Check your circuit breaker or GFCI outlet — the circuit may have tripped
• If you have a power outage, use the red emergency release cord to open the door manually (more on this below)

3. Look for the Lock Button or "Vacation Mode"

Many wall panels have a lock button that disables all remotes — only the wall button will work while it's active. It's easy to hit accidentally. Look for a button labeled Lock or a padlock icon on your wall panel and make sure it's not lit up.

4. Check the Safety Sensors

Every modern garage door opener has two photo-eye sensors mounted near the floor on either side of the door opening. If anything blocks the beam between them — or if a sensor is knocked out of alignment — the opener will refuse to close (and sometimes refuse to open as well).

• Look for a small LED on each sensor. Both should be solid (not blinking)
• A blinking or orange/amber light means the sensors aren't aligned or something is in the way
• Gently realign the sensors so they point directly at each other, then tighten the wing nut to hold them in place
• Wipe the sensor lenses with a dry cloth — dirt and spider webs are common culprits

If you can close the door while holding the wall button down (most openers allow this in an override mode), misaligned sensors are almost certainly the cause.

5. The Door Is Manually Locked

Garage doors have a manual slide lock — a horizontal bar on the inside of the door that slides into the track on either side. If this is engaged (perhaps by a family member who locked it manually), the opener motor will strain, trip a safety feature, and stop.

Look for a center-mounted handle or a horizontal bar across the door on the inside and make sure it's fully retracted to the center.

6. The Door Is Off the Tracks

A door that's jumped its track will either refuse to move or move only partway before stopping. You might hear grinding or see the door tilting unevenly.

Do not force the door open or closed if you suspect it's off the tracks. You risk bending the tracks further, damaging the panels, or causing injury. This is a job for a technician.

7. Broken Springs — The Most Common Serious Cause

Garage door springs are under enormous tension and do most of the heavy lifting when the door opens. When a spring breaks, you'll often hear a loud bang (like a gunshot) from the garage. The door will then feel extremely heavy and the opener — if it tries at all — won't have enough force to raise it.

To check: look at the large torsion spring above the door (or the two extension springs running parallel to the horizontal tracks on older doors). A broken torsion spring will have a visible gap in the coil.

8. The Opener Limits or Force Settings Are Off

Garage door openers have adjustable travel-limit and force settings that control how far the door travels and how hard the motor pushes. If these drift out of calibration, the opener may stop short of fully opening — or not open at all.

Most openers have small adjustment screws on the back or side of the motor unit labeled Up Limit, Down Limit, Up Force, and Down Force. Refer to your model's manual for adjustment instructions. On newer "smart" openers, these settings are in the app.

9. The Disconnect Cord Was Pulled

Every garage door opener has a red emergency release cord that disconnects the door from the drive mechanism so it can be opened manually. If this was pulled (during a power outage, for example) the opener will run but won't move the door.

To reconnect: manually slide the door until it aligns with the carriage, then pull the emergency release cord toward the door (not straight down) until you hear or feel it click back into the drive. Now try the opener again.

10. Stripped or Broken Drive Gear

The drive gear is the small plastic gear inside the opener motor assembly that engages the chain, belt, or screw. These gears wear out over time — especially on older chain-drive openers. If you hear the motor running but the door isn't moving and there are no broken springs, a stripped gear is likely the cause.

Drive gear replacement kits are available for most opener models, and a technician can typically replace one in under an hour.

Quick Reference: What You Can Fix vs. What Needs a Pro

Still Stuck? We're One Call Away.

If you've worked through this list and the door still won't cooperate, it's time to call in a professional. At Nate's Door Service, we serve the entire Kansas City metro — Missouri and Kansas — with same-day service on most repairs.